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January 31, 2005

South Coast of Brazil and São Paulo

From Uruguay I made my way up to Florianopolis and then towards Rio via Sãu Paulo.

It was another marathon 20 hour bus ride from Montevideo in Uruguay to Florianopolis. The views during the trip were spectacular and this part of Brazil is truly amazing. Florianopolis is a very interesting city. It lies half on the mainland and half on an island called Santa Catarina. The island is really beautiful and has literally hundreds of beaches.


On arrival at the bus terminal I finally managed to negotiate some lodging at a hostel. After much struggling with the crazy language that is Portuguese, I got on a bus and made it to the hostel in an area in the north of the island called Canasvieras. It was a very interesting hostel, and different from all those before - I was basically the only non-South American there. There were mostly Brazilians and Argentinians (Floripa is a favourite getaway for Argentines). It was very interesting and I got to practise my Spanish and try my hand at the ridiculously confusing Portuguese.

The beaches were really good and the first day I took a trip to Canasvieras beach. It was really a family beach - the water was calm and the sand was quite narrow. Here I got my first taste of the amazing sucos (fruit juices) made from the astonishing fruite they have in Brazil. Never have I seen such a variety and abundance of good fruit. I also tried a novelty on the beach. Mielies - or as others may say, corn on the cob. They have it boiling in wheelable trollies and then butter and salt it for you right there and then and then serve it in the skins - really nice.

After meeting some people in the hostel, we went to try some new beaches the next day. We went to Praia (beach) Brava. This was a good beach - the water was great (the waves were excellent) and the beach itself was really enjoyable.

The next day it as off to Praia Ingleses. This was quite a dull beach and the water was just too calm to enjoy.

On the fourth day it was off to Praia Mole. This was a great beach. The currents were really strong after a day of rain and I had a good time swimming, until I was struggling to fight the tide back in to shore. But, after all that great Camps Bay swimming coaching, I managed to pull myself back with some fearsome freestyle - worthy of olympic gold!

That night we decided to see what the nightlife had to offer! There was a party to be had in the vicinity of Jurere. We decided to haggle with an informal taxi driver and managed to bargain a good rate to the location. After he was stopped twice by the police and managed to get off with a bribe, we made our way there. He dropped us off in the town and we had absolutely no idea where the place was. After the most exhausing 1.5 hour walk through Brailian swamps we ended up at a place that was holding the party only to find out that the cover charge was a whopping 15 Reals, which we decided was too much. So, after not even setting foot in the party, we manage to catch a genuine taxi back to Canasvieras and headed straight to bed!

The next day I decided we would move to the other hostel in the centre of town to catch a bus the next day to São Paulo. I had to pass time till the bus shopping and watching movies. I watched Alexander - it was pretty bad! It was a 10 hour ride to Sãu Paulo and on arrival seeing one of the biggest cities in the world was very interesting.

Without wasting time and paranoid about being robbed I made my way to the metro and to Liberdade. The area with the biggest Japanese population outside of Japan and, of course, Japanese cuisine - the main reason for my trip to this apparently otherwise boring city.

So, I made it to Liberdade and unfortunately I arrived too early to experience some Japanese culture that morning. After an hour or so of walking around I managed to find a farily decent, if not too cheap, hotel. I checked in, and through the window of my room, I noticed that the shop across the road was just opening. It was time for breakfast. They were still packing out the days goods and never before had I seen so much sushi! All pre-packaged, there was raw fish of all different kinds. It was great. But, I felt that sushi for breakfast was a bit crazy, so, instead I had some stir-fry! haha! It was great.

I had a couple of hours kip before heading off to do some shopping! Found a really nice Japanese-style shopping centre with stuff that you would expect from the east. Electronics, cellphone accessories, food, and video games. And, to my delight, on the top floor there was a per-kilo Japanese restaurant, of course with sushi! I dug in and thoroughly enjoyed it!

Later I went out to explore this massive city, but it was all quiet (the next week I would find out that it was a public holiday! haha!). Then came the rain - a deluge to compete with Moses' great flood! So, there was nothing more to do than buy some dodgy CD's and go back to the hotel, after purchasing the very necessary umbrella!

Later, of course was supper time and even better this time, I found all-you-can-eat Japanese food, and of course sushi was the order of the day, accompanied by some great grilled meat and some excellent fruit juice and vegetables.

Well, that sums up my time in Sãu Paulo. And, yes, from the start it was all about the food! :-)

January 17, 2005

Uruguay

The time had come to leave Buenos Aires and start making my way, way up north, to Brasil. To get there I decided to go through Uruguay.

From Buenos Aires access to Uruguay is simple. There are many ferries that go and buses too. I took the slow (3 hour) ferry to Colonia, an old Portugese colonial town 2 hours west of Montevideo.

Colonia is a great place to for a day trip, either from Montevideo or from Buenos Aires - there are faster ferries that take just an hour. It still has cobbled streets and is located on the Rio de la Plata river. It has an amazingly relaxed feel, and it's possible to get around on bicycles or scooters. There is an HI hostel there and they have bikes to use for free. I decided to take a bike and ride around town. This was short lived when going up a slight incline, my peddling power and the strain on this old bike under my weight seemed to damage the chain! It slipped off and many attempts to fix it and carry on riding failed as somehow it was now stretched. So, I walked back and returned the bike to the hostel, pretending there was nothing wrong... after all, it could have happened before.

I stayed in Colonia two nights as I had some time to kill before going to Montevideo. The second night though I decided to check into a hotel with airconditioning, because the heat was unbearable. Tried out the casino there and unfortunately it was quite poor. There were two tables and about 10 slot machines.

Next day it was off to Montevideo to catch a bus straight to Piriapolis. A beach resort located on the river. It was established by an Argentinian entrepreneur at the turn of the century where he built a hotel, casino and it's own power station. The hotel still exists but is not in use. It's a pretty expensive resort and the cheapest hotel room I could find was US$20/night. It's full of Argentine holidaymakers and has quite an amazing atmosphere. There is a very grand hotel there, Hotel Argentino. If you're on a traveller's budget, forget about it. Some rooms go for US$70/night! It has an ok casino, but again not that great. Because the place is full of Argentines, it's hours are a bit crazy. The streets are full at 2am and most shops are still open. It has some really good restaurants, but like anywhere, the places off the main drag are sometimes better. The beach is on the river and the water is pretty warm, but unfortunately there are no waves. I did however spot fish jumping out the water about 10m metres from me.

After two day in Hotel Atlantico, it was back to Montevideo. I checked into the Red Hostel. It's very nice and spacious and has the most friendly staff and an amazing balcony. It's really new too, so everyone is very enthusiastic. Spent a night there and then went off to Sandra's house. She was arriving back from Bolivia and I was to meet her there. The next morning we planned to go to Cabo Polonio. A beach resort on the Atlantic coast. But, after buying the tickets it was decided that La Pedrera a bit further on was the place to be. They were to have a massive party there over the weekend.

So, we changed our tickets and headed off. The bus trip was 4.5 hours and was fairly comfortable. We were four (three Frenchies and me). After we arrived we realised that coming without a place tostay was a bit of a crazy idea. Sandra knew someone who had a house there, but we could not get hold of him. Added to that, there was some sort of Hurricane-like storm that struck about an hour after we arrived. Torrential rain and gale-force winds were the order of the day and added to the fact that it was night time, there was no way we were going to find anywhere to stay. So Sandra and an Argentine, Pablo, we met along the way went in search of refuge. All they could find after an hour in the pouring rain was a house under renovation. So, we took the illegal route. We decided to squat in a house that had some hard concrete floors. Little did we know that this house contained most of South America's mosquito colony, that seemed only to like my skin. Must be that Dove with extra moisturiser! After not sleeping for fear of police capture and the waves of attacks from determined mosquitos, we got up (not woke up) and headed to the beach for sunrise.

That was possibly the worst night ever, but it could only get better. After taking photos of my attacked forehead, we headed off to get some breakfast. The storm had just passed and the sky was clearing, but not much. Sowe took the decision that if we could not find a place to stay we would head back to Montevideo. We passed the time on the beach. The water was extremely warm and the storm had created some hectic waves. The currents were strong and swimming was fun, but a lot of hard work. Sandra went on a rekkie again and finally came back after an hour or so with some good news. She had found here friend Roberto's house and we would be able to take refuge there. By this time, two had already lefty and we were down to 3 of us.

We spent the day relaxing, eating and swimming. That night was the big party, but because of the lack of sleep the night before, I was exhausted! I managed to stay till 4am and take an excellent Argentinian band called Miranda - kitch, retro pop - a bit like Spandau Ballet. I decided to walk back to the house at this time (which incidentally has no electricity) and somehow made it back there through some celestial navigation and a bit more guess work! Walking on sand dunes in pitch darkness is not easy. I found my sleeping bag (which, also incidentally, was the used for the first time in 4.5 months the night before). I slept outside and awoke to the sun shining in my face and an excellent day ahead! The rest of the day was spent relaxing and beaching and getting a tan to be proud of!

Then it was back to Montevideo where I am now. Two days here and then I'll be missioning my way up to Florianopolis in Brasil. A long 18 hour bus ride. Hopefully I'll get a cama seat and all'll be good.

So, till Brasil...